Home' Central Canterbury News : May 29th 2013 Contents 9
CENTRAL CANTERBURY NEWS, MAY 29, 2013
5 Brookside Road (opposite Rolly Inn)
Dr Nick Page B.VSc.
Providing full surgical,
medical and diagnostic
facilities for pets.
Farm animal, livestock and
equine services also available.
ALL CONSULTATIONS BY APPOINTMENT
Tel: 347 9682 Fax: 347 9681
Rolleston Veterinary Services Ltd
Monday to Friday
8.00am -- 7.00pm
9am -- 1pm
Chrissy MacPherson - NCVN
Call 027 479 5005
Knotty and matted fur?
Nails need trimming?
Flea and worming out of date?
Been meaning to get a microchip?
Let The Mobile Vet Nurse take care of your pets well being
in the comforts of your own home.
TOO STRESSFUL GETTING
YOUR PET TO THE VET?
Katz n K9z 2011 Limited | Steve & Margaret James | Goodericks Rd | RD4 | Christchurch
w Katznk9z.co.nz • firstname.lastname@example.org
Steve & Margaret would like to welcome you to Katz n K9z.
A professional family-run boarding kennels and cattery
that has built up an enviable reputation of quality and care.
A home away from home.
• Situated 3 minutes
from Lincoln University,
on 10 acres of Lincoln
kennels and cattery
• Large play areas
• Balanced nutritional diets
• Big fluffy beds to
snuggle up in
• Cuddles and lots of TLC
• We insist on all our guests
being fully vaccinated and
will ask proof of this.
success: Our pets
feel the cold too,
but are sometimes
not as well-
equipped as we
are for staying
Pooches' fur coats
not always enough
By JEFF LILLY
Ah, the perils of the Canterbury winter: snow,
slush, sleet, ice, frigid temperatures and early
It is all right for human animals. We can
wrap up, toss on gloves, hats and scarves,
slather on lip balm, protect exposed skin, and
venture out into nature's cold bounty
prepared for the worst.
Humans have adapted to life from the
tropics through to the icy polar regions.
Our pets can't adapt so easily. Protecting
them is our responsibility, and we need to be
aware of what works and what doesn't.
I refer to cats and dogs mainly, as we tend
not to take our fish for walks or our budgies
for a flutter around the block.
Myth: Unlike summer, when your car can
act like a mini greenhouse, a pet is all right left
in the car in winter months.
Fact: Cars can act like a refrigerator in cold
months, so your pet is not going to enjoy
sitting there shivering while you do your
shopping in a heated mall.
Myth: A dog's pads protects its feet from all
Fact: Yes, although a dog's pads contain
fatty tissue that does not freeze as quickly as
other tissue, protection may be necessary, as
most dogs aren't quite of the sledding variety.
Even sledding dogs sometimes have a product
used on their paws to protect them from
extreme conditions (google 'Musher's Secret').
So don't laugh too scathingly when you see
the neighbour's pomeranian dancing across a
frosty lawn in little booties.
Myth: The coats you see on some dogs out
for walks with their owners are for show and
are unnecessary, as dogs have their own
natural fur coats.
Fact: Dogs and cats do get cold, particularly
short-haired breeds, older animals, puppies,
and pets with medical conditions. You can
pick up insulated products, sometimes with a
turtleneck, that cover the belly, and that
protect from the neck to the tip of the tail.
Myth: Dogs should put on condition in
the winter to keep their fat ratio up and
Fact: Not always true. Dogs may be less
active in colder weather, so gaining weight as
a form of insulation may not be healthy.
Indoor dogs who participate in strenuous
activities or winter sports may require
additional food in colder months. You need to
keep your pet's heart, organs, and joints
healthy, and keep an eye on their weight
Myth: Fleas will not affect your pet during
the winter months.
Fact: True, fleas may not survive in brutal
winter temperatures outside, but the warmth
of your home means fleas may gravitate
towards indoor comfort, where they can
Always consult a veterinarian with any
questions you may have.
Winter feed basics
for lifestyle animals
Preventing waste: It helps to use feeders, so that hay and grain
is not trampled into the mud.
Winter is upon us and this
means being ready for any
stock feed shortages.
Very wet weather can turn
pasture to mud, and leave it
drained of minerals and
When grass gets low,
ruminants need plenty of
roughage to keep their
digestive tracts working
properly, and this means
keeping stocks of hay, grains
and silage in dry shelter.
Sheep require about 1.5kg
of hay per day, cows about
4kg, and horses 10kg,
depending on weight.
If you need to build up
condition, you will have to
feed them more. Having
feeders is a good idea, as this
prevents good hay being
trampled into the mud.
Silage, if you have it, is best
mixed with a little hay and
grain, if you have sheep or
goats who are not used to it.
Ensure that it is fed from
bales that have been well
sealed, and it should smell
pleasant and wholesome (not
mouldy or offensive).
If it smells off, it will be
unpalatable and can even
cause infections and abortion.
The following cautions
come from Trish Lewis,
national technical manger for
Cundy Technical Services,
which distributes Alltech
nutritional products in
If a silage bale is warm, or
smells musty, mouldy, or of
alcohol, it's an indication of
either moulds or yeast -- if
there are visible signs of
mould, do not feed it out (use
it as mulch in your garden or
put it in your compost pile).
bale has been punctured, it
can allow mould to grow, and
possums, rats and mice to
contaminate it further. If you
accidentally puncture a bale,
immediately tape it up.
Want to assess the quality of
a bale? Grab a handful and
squeeze hard. If moisture
runs out, the dry matter (DM)
content is about 20 per cent.
If moisture slowly drips out,
it's about 25 per cent. If your
hand gets moist but there
are no drips, it's at about 30
per cent. The ideal DM
content for baled silage is
30-35 per cent.
There should be no residual
smell on your hands once
you've washed them -- if there
is, it's a sign of bad
Grains and other hard feeds
may also to be added slowly
to an animal's diet to give
time for the rumen/stomach
Grain can be spread over
the top of hay in small
amounts and then slowly
increased each day.
Lay the hay and grain
out so every animal gets a
chance to have their share,
and then slowly increase it
over a week, to the maximum
required. You should find
that grain packets have
extensive guidelines on
them, so that you have an
idea of what your animal
should be receiving,
according to its weight.
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